Fried 980Ti

      Fried 980Ti

      I think I fried one of my 980Ti's. I put Heatkiller Waterblocks on both cards, and they didn't have the best instructions, one works fine, but the other wouldn't even boot if it was connected. I finally got it up and running but as soon as I ran Valley Benchmark, I got a hard shutdown. Now if I plug in that one card to the power supply it will not boot.



      I ran Valley with the other card and it ran perfect, on the other Heatkiller block, even overclocked it never went above 34C.


      I'm not sure what I did wrong. I put all pads on correctly, I put the three rubber bumpers between the backplate and the back of the card. There where some black plastic pieces, that are stil in the bag, that I never used. The instructions mad no mention of these though.


      I ordered another card from Amazon today and will try and put the block on the new card. I just don't want to bust another card. :whistling:
      Hi Drew,
      sometimes, it's just as simple as mechanical tension within the PCB, caused by screws that were tightened to varying degrees. Have you tried disassembling it and remounting the water block, paying extra attention to equal tightening of the screws? Have you tried running your card with the stock cooler, to see if it is really fried?
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      JakPol wrote:

      Hi Drew,
      sometimes, it's just as simple as mechanical tension within the PCB, caused by screws that were tightened to varying degrees. Have you tried disassembling it and remounting the water block, paying extra attention to equal tightening of the screws? Have you tried running your card with the stock cooler, to see if it is really fried?
      When I disassemble should I replace the thermal pads? I will redo the paste on GPU as well.

      DrewS66 wrote:

      ]When I disassemble should I replace the thermal pads? I will redo the paste on GPU as well.

      You should ALWAYS clean the DIE thorughly and apply new paste when changling the cooling solution. As for the pads, I would suggest that you check them: did the components leave visible "print" marks in the pads? that is a possible way to confirm if the pads were placed correctly or not. Maybe a pad slipped off of its intended plave when you installed the cooler?
      When installing the stock cooler, you can reuse the pads that were installed on the stock cooler. Using new pads would be better, though, but since we are only trying to see if the card is working at all, the preused ones should be allright.
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      JakPol wrote:

      DrewS66 wrote:

      ]When I disassemble should I replace the thermal pads? I will redo the paste on GPU as well.

      You should ALWAYS clean the DIE thorughly and apply new paste when changling the cooling solution. As for the pads, I would suggest that you check them: did the components leave visible "print" marks in the pads? that is a possible way to confirm if the pads were placed correctly or not. Maybe a pad slipped off of its intended plave when you installed the cooler?
      When installing the stock cooler, you can reuse the pads that were installed on the stock cooler. Using new pads would be better, though, but since we are only trying to see if the card is working at all, the preused ones should be allright.
      I found my mistake, on the instructions it says to leave one M3x 8 screw and washer in the back of the card before mounting the backplate. I missed that part as it was in a picture, but not in the instructions. As per instructions it said to remove all screws from the video card and cooler berfore mounting the backplate. I definately burned the card. :cursing: After I disassembled the block and backplate I had a burn mark on the inside of the backplate and the 1.0 Thermal pad.

      I lucked out on the second card as that one was fine. I did pull the backplate on that one and put the M3x8 screw under the backplate now. :whistling:
      I'm sorry to hear that! :S To be sure, did you try the card with the stock cooler reinstalled? Maybe it runs against all odds?

      We'll take a look at the instructions if we can make this part clearer. I know, this doesn't help you right now, but it might be one small positive outcome of this.
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      JakPol wrote:

      I'm sorry to hear that! :S To be sure, did you try the card with the stock cooler reinstalled? Maybe it runs against all odds?

      We'll take a look at the instructions if we can make this part clearer. I know, this doesn't help you right now, but it might be one small positive outcome of this.
      Yes I tried no luck, I already ordered a new card from Amazon. I still love the cooler. Just check the instructions mainly the one that comes with the backplate. It says to remove all screws from the cooler, and then place the three rubber bumpers on the card to raise the backplate, then it tells you to reinstall the M3x8 and M3 x 12 screws into the backplate. In the illustration on the top right page there is a small note telling you to put one screw and plastic washer through the card into the cooler under the backplate that some may miss.
      I checked back with the product designers. THe single M3x8 screw that is under the backplate serves only one purpose: it pulls the water block with pressure down onto the VRMs. So missing this screw should result in a small worsening of VRM temperatures, since the pressure between the VRMs and the water block would be suboptimal. We can't imagine a scenario where missing this screw would result in a fried graphic card.

      However, we would like to compensate you if the failure should in fact be due to a mistake made by us. For this to be verified, please answer the following questions:
      Can you please provide the serial number and pictures from both the naked PCB (back and front) and the packaging, prefereably with the sticker with the barcode readable?
      Can you verify that the card did run prior to installing the water block?
      If those check out, we'll need to inspect the card ourselves, so be prepared to send it to our headquarter in Germany.
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      JakPol wrote:

      I checked back with the product designers. THe single M3x8 screw that is under the backplate serves only one purpose: it pulls the water block with pressure down onto the VRMs. So missing this screw should result in a small worsening of VRM temperatures, since the pressure between the VRMs and the water block would be suboptimal. We can't imagine a scenario where missing this screw would result in a fried graphic card.

      However, we would like to compensate you if the failure should in fact be due to a mistake made by us. For this to be verified, please answer the following questions:
      Can you please provide the serial number and pictures from both the naked PCB (back and front) and the packaging, prefereably with the sticker with the barcode readable?
      Can you verify that the card did run prior to installing the water block?
      If those check out, we'll need to inspect the card ourselves, so be prepared to send it to our headquarter in Germany.

      DrewS66 wrote:

      JakPol wrote:

      I checked back with the product designers. THe single M3x8 screw that is under the backplate serves only one purpose: it pulls the water block with pressure down onto the VRMs. So missing this screw should result in a small worsening of VRM temperatures, since the pressure between the VRMs and the water block would be suboptimal. We can't imagine a scenario where missing this screw would result in a fried graphic card.

      However, we would like to compensate you if the failure should in fact be due to a mistake made by us. For this to be verified, please answer the following questions:
      Can you please provide the serial number and pictures from both the naked PCB (back and front) and the packaging, prefereably with the sticker with the barcode readable?
      Can you verify that the card did run prior to installing the water block?
      If those check out, we'll need to inspect the card ourselves, so be prepared to send it to our headquarter in Germany.

      JakPol wrote:

      Sure I can take pics of the pcb both back and front. I have another card with the heatkiller remounted on it now. I can send the old card out with the original box to you if you want to take a look at it. My heatkiller backplate does have a burn mark on it too. Where should I send the pictures of the PCB?

      JakPol wrote:

      The original MSI card has been working since last June, I had it on the air cooler for a month and then under an EK Waterblock.

      JakPol wrote:

      Should I now put the new card in my system :?: :?:

      JakPol wrote:

      Thanks for trying to help. :thumbsup:
      Well thanks to Jakob I finally figured out my mistake. When I installed the backplate I misunderstood the directions and missed the part to install the black standoff plastic pieces. :cursing:

      I have one card re-installed properly and working awesome. Overclocked and running GTA V, or stress testing with 3D Mark temps don't go over 31C

      GPU Clock Offset: 300Mhz
      Mem Clock Offset: 400Mhz

      Heatkiller blocks for me from now on!!!! :thumbsup: